I did contact them directly with a number of fixes and suggestions. These are nothing more than tolerance issues with the factory that actually produces the parts. they just can't seem to get the manufacturing right. I have successfully over-torqued the cups onto metal rails at 7nm with no issues. done that, threw a LOT of pieces away before I got it right.īTW for those struggling. If you are really patient and crafty, you can get sheet nylon and make your own. I do NOT recommend a metal washer for this. Not impossible, but a bit of MacGyvering to find the right diameter/thickness. One possibility is to find a nylon flat washer similar to those used to correct for BB30 bottom brackets (another issue I have resolved for a lot of folks) and fit that in on one/both sides of the splines before inserting the saddle and cups.
You can NOT over torque enough on the carbon rails of that model Fizik saddle and not risk compression fracture of the carbon. If you have eliminated fore/back slippage and have it leveled to your desired fit, that's probably as good as it gets. The next issue, lateral movement, is a challenge you are sort of stuck with. This is the first step and sounds like you have. I assume you have received the oval cups for carbon rails not the round for metal rails. If you want it to work as advertised… sorry, 3T is a FAIL.Ĭlick to expand.Sigh. Frankly, I enjoyed spending a rainy afternoon making it work… I would have been pissed if after all that it didn’t. If you don’t mind re-engineering something then go for it. “Italian Design” is not necessarily the boast they think it is. But this is NOT what I expected from an expensive seatpost. Then, I had to torque it to 6 Nm and use LocTite on the bolts. And, for good measure, roughed up the saddle rails as well. Then I had to rough up all the points where the rails contact the cups and prongs. 3 back/forth scrubs on 80 grit sandpaper did the trick. I had to remove a few microns of metal from the inside edge of both cups. I used a copious amount of grease on all the splines of both gear units and grease around the lip where the cups meet the “clamp” area. Will still be 1/8 degree nose down but that's better than nose up.
You have to set it one "notch" nose down from level if you want to end up near level when done. it ain't pretty and not for the anti-tinkerer.
3t dorico team seatpost pro#
Here's what I had to do to make the Palladio Pro version work with a standard 7mm round rail saddle. Another case of "it looks great on paper". Fundamentally, the tolerance on the internal gears for setting angles is too loose (at least 1/8 degree play) and the cups are not machined correctly to hold the seat rails. Well, the 3T system is a great example of a fantastic idea and great engineering meeting up with reality.
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